I've successfully installed the turn signal to brake light converter in both bikes. It turned out even easier than I originally thought.
Objective: Utilize the existing rear turn signals as auxiliary brake lights without disabling the turn signal function, and more importantly, don't spend $80 to do it.
Problem: Suzuki didn't wire the bike that way, and Priority Lights don't give their stuff away!
Solution: A standard trailer converter $12 (used to allow cars with amber turn signals and red brake lights to two trailers that use combination signal/brake lights) is used to activate the turn signals as if they were the trailer (allowing the rear turn signals to operate just like a trailer brake/signal light would). When braking, both turn signals are lit full brightness, while regular brake light function is not affected. When signaling, the signaling side flashes on and and off while the other side is on or off with the brake light.
Problem 2: Converter changes the load on the stock flasher unit, causing fast flashing, or no flashing.
Solution 2: An electronic flasher $8 is used since the load changes from the stock configuration. I've found that an off the shelf 2 terminal electronic flasher will regulate the flashing to acceptable rates.
Summary: It works!
Supporting Details: The converter I used was made by Hoppy Wiring Accessories, available in many locations including Pep Boys, Kmart and Walmart. The specific unit I used was: #48845 Taillight Converter (for vehicles with independent tern signals, 48" total length) a flat sealed converter with a total of 7 wires. They offer another converter with a 4 pole connector that WILL NOT WORK properly, make sure you get the right one. Others may work, but you're on your own.
I used two different 2 terminal electronic flashers, and don't have the brands handy. Both worked fine in the VX, but one flashed too fast in my GS. You may have to try more than one to get it working perfectly, there seems to be a few varieties of 2 terminal electronic flashers available.
I discovered that the 93 VX has a different style flasher, not the automotive style. Both are two terminal, and you should be able to snip the existing connector off, and install one for the automotive flasher.
The wiring is very easy, and requires no cutting of existing bike wiring to complete, so it can always be removed at a later date, without any tell tale signs. The unit is clearly labeled, I will detail where each wire is connected below. I chose a mounting location (it comes with double face tape) and cut the wires to meet the existing connectors for the rear turn signals and brake light. After cutting the converter wires to the desired length, I put crimp on bullet connectors on the unit to make installation a 5 minute task. The unit has 4 wires going into it (car side) and 3 wires coming out of it (trailer side). Put a male bullet connector on each of the "car side" wires, and a female bullet connector on the trailer side wires (except the parking light wires). This properly shields the live end of the wires should a wire come loose, and makes the "plug in" connections almost fool proof.
Each is connected as follows:
Car side
Right turn signal - right turn signal input from bike.
Brake Light - use quick connect wire splice to tap brake wire (white on both bikes here)
Left turn signal - left turn signal input from bike.
parking light - not used, cut short and taped
Trailer side
Right turn/brake light - right turn signal lamp
Left turn/brake light - left turn signal lamp
Parking light - not used, cut short and taped
On the VX, all the wires are located under the tail, and can be done with removal of only the seat, but removing the tail section does make it a bit easier. On my GS650, the whole thing takes place under the seat, under the tool kit.
Cautions:
If you aren't familiar with your bike's wiring, find someone who is. This is pretty simple stuff, but if you're new to automotive wiring, you could get crossed up.
I can't claim this will work on every bike, but I'd expect most bikes would accept the treatment
The bullet connectors you can buy are NOT the same size as the bike's smaller ones. If possible, find connectors that are the exact same size. All I had to do to keep it all together, was crimp the new female connectors tighter to hold the bike's smaller connectors. The others will go together, but may require a bit of persuasion. Soldering would be the most dependable way, but splice in on the bike side so that if signals are ever replaced, you don't have to rewire it again.
Normal (thermal) flashers will flash faster or slower (or not at all) when a bulb burn out, giving you an indication that a bulb is out. Electronic flashers will flash at a constant rate with at least one working bulb. If your rear signal bulb goes out, the flasher will continue to act normal, giving you no indication of problems. If the front signal bulb goes out, the electronic flasher no longer has a path to ground, and will not flash at all, and all signaling will be disabled on that side. You need to check your bulbs regularly.
Amber brake lights are probably not legal, nor are rear facing amber parking/running lights. I've not heard of a biker being pulled over much less ticketed for the offense, unless other factors (usually squidly behavior) are involved. "For Off Road Use Only" would be on the box if I was selling these ;-) Please be aware of this, and decide if it's worth the risk to you.
When you are not braking, the rear turn signals behave as they always did, flashing "on" along with the front signal bulb. However, when braking, the unit turns the rear signals on, and actually flashes the rear signaling bulb "off" instead of "on", and ends up being opposite the front. What does that mean ? When you first get on the brakes, the rear signaling bulb "reverses" to flashing "off" instead of "on", and appears erratic for a second. If you were to flash the brake lights on and off while also signaling a turn, both turn signals would be flashing, and could be very confusing to someone following you. It sounds confusing, but as long as you don't try to flash your brake light by pumping the brakes on and off, you shouldn't have a problem. Check it out in the garage before you hit the road, you don't want to send the wrong signals!
I would not combine this with any form of brake light modulator, it would simply be too many flashing lights for the average motorist to figure out.
I will be glad to help anyone install the gadget, or at the very least show them how it functions on my bike. The parts cost about $22 in all. Anyone with questions, feel free to ask me on or off list, if you have the question, chances are someone else does to. I've tried to cover as much as possible, sorry if it was too long.